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Prague Confidential #4

We have dinner at Čestr

The beef is the king of the place. Carved as before and grilled over charcoal, it melts on the tongue. But mashed potatoes are also a torment for the pounds – like fries served in a casserole dish. As for the beer, it is drawn from the huge barrel.

Legerova 75/57. +420 222 727 851.cestr.ambi.cz/cz/

We visit the Kampa Museum

At the entrance, two sculptures of babies by David Černý seem to be advancing on the lawn and yellow penguins from Cracking Art Group are ready to jump into the Vltava… This former mill turned museum of modern art is surprising. Its architecture and its exhibitions too.

U Sovových mlýnů 2. +420 257 286 147. www.museumkampa.com/en.

We take a bowl of contemporary at DOX

Out of the way, this center of contemporary art, architecture, photography and design is an (almost) obligatory stopover. There's always a worthwhile expo – just like her design store Dox by Qubus which showcases local design.

Poupětova 1. +420 295 568 123. www.dox.cz.

We're doing "buddy-buddy" with Zuzi and Jan from Taste of Prague

This friendly couple kicked off the best food tours in Prague while telling the story of the city. At our request, they also reveal that of their family – which would be the subject of a book! Good to know, Zuzi and Jan rent a design apartment in the trendy Letná district. We inevitably make new friends.

+420 603 252 810. www.tasteofprague.com.

We visit a hidden artist's studio in Nový Svět

In one of the most romantic and calm streets of the city, we have a coffee at Kavárna Nový Svět. We take this opportunity to kindly ask Hana Formanová to see the workshop of her father, Josef Nálepa. Upstairs, she rents a charming three-bedroom apartment with piano (from €120, min. 2 nights).

Nový Svět 2. +420 242 430 700. novysvet.net.

Getting there:With Czech Airlines. www.czechairlines.com.

Sleeping there:Hotel Unic, a newcomer and well placed. www.hotel-unic.cz.

More info:CzechTourism, www.czechtourism.com and 01 53 73 00 32.

To read:"A Great Weekend in Prague 2015", Hachette.