Ask the Rhétais for their favorite beach and you will have the complete list of local coasts! However, by insisting a little, Patache beach in Trousse-Chemise inevitably comes back. We "do the Mao" there by letting ourselves be carried by the current (very strong!) along the beach. Funny, if we accept the movement, because it is impossible to go against the current, and we stay close to the shore. The only way to get back to your towel? To go back home by foot. Chills guaranteed for a first swim!
With 100 km of cycle paths, cycling is essential on the island (to rent from Yoo Too in Saint-Martin, and at Les Cycles in Ars). The greediest take the road from Saint-Martin to La Couarde, along the waves and the vineyards. Along the way, they stop in the oyster huts to taste them with a little white wine. The most beautiful walk connects Ars-en-Ré to Les Portes, through the marshes. The rabbits scamper past the wheels, in the scent of everlasting dunes and mustard, against a backdrop of a concert of birds. Arrived at the Portes, we pretend not to recognize Vincent Lindon and Sandrine Kiberlain (golden rule of the village which applies to all people) and we have a drink or have dinner at Lilleau (2, rue Jules-David) .
Crossroads of migratory birds, the island, for the black stilt or the common whitethroat, is the terminus. Others stop there before heading for Siberia. Surprising birds:a sandwich tern, ringed in South Africa, was found on Ré after 12,000 km! To find out more, take a trip to the Maison du Fier or, even better, take part in the walks organized in and around the nature reserve! Exciting. Artist souls can take their brushes and follow the watercolourist Laurence Jean Bart (book on iledere-loix.fr).
In Ars-en-Ré, Marie &Benoît offer stocks of French, Swiss, Italian, Czech and Russian military clothing and accessories (37, rue du Havre). Examples? Czech tablecloths dyed in faded or Superga colors designed for the Italian army. Nice, they have an address in Paris, like By Sophie, a young Parisian designer for children, who takes up her summer quarters at Portes-en-Ré (20, rue Jules-David). For toddlers too, but in Saint-Martin, Little Casba (1 bis, Petite-Rue-du-Marché) is the best pick for original gifts (toys, screen prints, ultra-stylish and graphic T-shirts). It's a stone's throw from Iloya (21, rue de Sully), full of pretty brands for adults. On the flea market, head to La Couarde-sur-Mer, where the micro shop l'Heure Bleue offers charming objects, from the 17th century to the 1950s.
We fell in love with the address of the Oysters of Trousse-Chemise (route de la Levée-Verte, Les Portes-en-Ré)... You will have to pass... between the golf balls (yes, yes!) before arriving on a land that looks abandoned. There, a wind of freedom blows from the neighboring marshes. On the menu, oysters, whelks, prawns, langoustines and possibly crisps, ham and ice cream… We sit down outside, it’s as rustic as can be. Another address, ideal after the Ars market:Au Goûter Breton (48, rue du Havre) for its great crepes. Finally, in Saint-Martin, the gourmet bistro Les Embruns (6, passage Chay-Morin) will delight the taste buds with seasonal produce.
Here we go!
Where to sleep?
In Ars, the hotel Le Sénéchal***, located a few steps from the charming market, is a favorite where you feel a bit like home.
In Saint-Martin, the Hotel de Toiras***** is a fairy tale hotel where you go with your Prince Charming. Good to know:you can also dine at the delicious Table d’Olivia.
More info:www.iledere.com.
