5 good reasons to (re)go to Marseille

Anchoring at the InterContinental Marseille Hôtel-Dieu

Opposite Notre Dame de la Garde, a stone's throw from the Panier district and the spectacular concrete laces of the MuCEM, this former 18th century hospital transformed into a 5-star hotel under the leadership of decorator Jean-Philippe Nuel could not be better placed to explore the city of Marseille. You can swim in an indoor swimming pool that looks like a washhouse, get a massage with lavender pouches at the Spa by Clarins, drink with a view at the Le Capian bar and rediscover the bouille-abaisse sublimated by the starred chef Lionel Lévy – milkshake style at the brasserie Les Fenêtres or consumed style at the gastronomic restaurant l'Alcyone.

Enjoy the Calanques National Park

This is the perfect time to hike there without the crowds, and especially without the restrictions linked to the risk of fire in the summer. Its limestone cliffs plunging into translucent turquoise waters are still sparkling with whiteness! You may prefer to access it by sea, in search of some 60 listed marine species:groupers, dolphins, sea turtles... We embark at the Quai d'Honneur, at the foot of the InterContinental, Chef Lévy's picnic basket under the arm. We drop anchor in front of the Frioul islands, and we feast (club sandwich with smoked salmon and black bread, salad of prawns with citrus fruits…), being careful of the gabians which swirl above our heads. www.calanques-parcnational.fr.

Shopper "with the accent"

Several options. 1/ target cutting-edge concept stores, such as Jogging, set up in a former butcher's shop, the Jardin Montgrand in a 19th century private mansion or the Manufactures Françaises (13, rue du Panier) in the Vieux Panier. Without forgetting Hélène Boy, “a little flea market of nothing at all” turned into a creative lab. 2/ Head to the Endoume district, the new headquarters of hipsters, to shopper stylish jumpsuits at the boutique-workshop Cozete and handpicked vintage clothes at Egg (121, rue Sainte). 3/ Explore the latest additions to the Euroméditerranée project. The new Les Docks Marseille “life center” brings together young designers (like Triaaangles and its message t-shirts), organic supermarket and state-of-the-art sports club (Virtus Sport Training Center) in the former warehouses of La Joliette. The more classic brands are on the other side of the quay, at the Terrasses du Port and the decorative shopping (Wooden Gallery, Les Toiles du Large, etc.) at the Voûtes de la Major.

Eat, again and again!

We whet our appetite by consulting the blog of the delicious Pierre Psaltis, and off we go for a culinary city tour. First stop Maison Saint Honoré by Pierre Ragot (131, rue d’Endoume), a bakery that works creatively with organic sourdough and sells its (very good) bread by the slice. A stone's throw away, fill your basket with local fruit and vegetables at the peasant grocery Les Pissenlits (147, rue Sainte), peck – oysters, cheeses, Corsican charcuterie…- between two coffees at the counter of the Saint-Victor Market (33 , rue d'Endoume). Then, we have lunch at La Boîte à Sardines (2, bd de la Liberation). Fabien Rugi, the fishmonger / owner, sublimates the best of the day's catch in a joyous bazaar:fishing nets, life jackets, tins of sardines fight over the walls. At dinner, book with your eyes closed at Une Table Au Sud (2, quai du Port). Why ? Ludovic Turac was able to earn his first star at just 25 years old. His revisited aioli is a masterpiece of dressage, but not only.

Going out at night

Taste a beer among some 200 Belgian, French, English, German references at Fietje or an organic wine under the astonishing ceiling of La Relève (41, rue d'Endoume), chain the gastronomic tapas at the restaurant Chez Paulette in afterwork on the Vieux Port, listen to the latest set by the Mama Shelter DJ with a raki in hand, then settle down between sky and sea at the Terrasses du Port Refectory, which offers a 360° view of Marseille:the night has only just begun!

Here we go!

To sleep. Hotel InterContinental Marseille, double room from €199, breakfast included, 04 13 42 42 34.

To visit. Exhibition "Picasso, a genius without a pedestal", at the MuCEM, from 27/04 to 29/08/2016.

Good plan:the City Pass Marseille, an all-inclusive passport (museums, visits, boat to the Château d'If, transport, etc.) valid for 24, 48 or 72 hours, from €24.

More info:marseille-tourisme.com.