6:50 p.m. In a drizzle, I arrive at Bodelwyddan Castle, a listed 19th century monument near Rhyl, North East Wales. I am about to participate in a "Victorian seance", a seance of spiritualism as it was practiced in the Victorian era. The objective:to go in search of the spirits that inhabit the place, in complete darkness, using tools dedicated to the paranormal. Bodelwyddan is reputed to be one of the most haunted sites in the country:American ghost hunters have even come to film shows there. While waiting for the paranormal experts who will serve as my guides, the guardian of the castle, Les, offers to shelter me inside. While opening the heavy door, he specifies that “these ghost stories, he doesn’t really believe in them”. But he tells me that he came across a man in white socks one evening after closing time putting on his shoes. Tourists have also complained about the smell of tobacco in the billiard room without anyone being able to spot where the smell came from. Les also had to evacuate visitors in tears:a child in soaked clothes is visibly haunting the premises. In the dark enclosure of this deserted castle, I feel moderately reassured.
Fortunately, Pea and Lucy arrive, dressed in Victorian fashion. An outfit intended to “reassure the spirits”, specify the two charming guides. We turn off the lights. After a quick visit (with a flashlight!) of the castle, the serious things begin. To invoke the spirits, a whole range of paraphernalia is presented to me:dowsing rods, a pendulum, a crystal ball, a round table and stemmed glasses serve as period instruments. But Pea and Lucy don't want to leave anything to chance:they introduce me to more modern tools like this little electronic device that sounds the alarm when spirits pass by or this funny laser gun that detects sudden changes in temperature! I receive a crystal stone as a gift to hold in my hand to protect myself. Here I am soon seated around the table, finger resting on the edge of a glass, thumbs up. Pea says, “Spirit, are you there? Give us a sign, please. " No answer. The cold is getting more and more intense. It's my turn... I wonder if ghosts understand French. I can always try, assure the guides. No matter how much we call, clap our hands, sing, the spirits remain silent.
Last chance:here we are in the cellar where a ghost is supposed to have taken refuge. The malicious kind, I am warned. In the shambles, a new attempt to start the dialogue. Lucy assures me that, during the session the day before, her flashlight suddenly flew across the room! I close my eyes, determined to concentrate with all my might. Wasted effort. A skeptical participant sneers. “It only works if you believe in it,” warns Pea who tries to console me:“Sometimes spirits have other things to do. She specifies that some visitors, devastated, ask to leave the castle as quickly as possible:in addition to the usual occupants, it is not impossible indeed to find oneself face to face with one's own ghosts... Phew, I thought quietly, relieved not to have found myself face to face with the deceased of my family! It's time to get back on the road to spend the night in the incredible baroque village of Portmeirion, about 2 hours drive south, which served as a filming location for the series "The Prisoner". Decidedly, between nightmarish specters and visions of imprisonment, my nights promise to be restless...
Here we go!
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